The Western Ghats, or Sahyadri mountain range run parallel to the west coast of India, reaching into the Karnataka State. Westerly monsoon winds carry dense rain clouds that break on the intercepting mountain range, sustaining the rainforest's flora, fauna, and wildlife. Ratnagiri Estate is situated in the southwestern Ghat's foothills, where the mountain meets the Deccan Plateau near Bababudangiri, the birthplace of coffee production in India. This abundant mountainside is canopied by silver oak trees, shading the coffee grown below for generations. The Patre family founded Ratnagiri Estate in 1927, and Ashok Patre assumed ownership in 1989. Since then, Ashok has revolutionized coffee production on his farm and in India. 

India may not be well-known for its specialty coffee production, but in recent years, the specialty coffee industry has been sourcing more coffee from India. WPCR has been watching this origin for a few years and finally sampled these coffees in early 2023. Ratnagiri Estate follows strict quality standards and has its water supply from two streams following strict guidelines of quality and pollution controls. Ratnagiri Estate is a vast coffee estate known for its coffee while maintaining a diverse and rich ecosystem filled with a multitude of fauna and flora.

At Ratnagiri, generations of the Patre family have dedicated their lives since 1927, to caring for a land that has rewarded their passion and perseverance. Mr. Patre exudes humility and deep coffee wisdom as he explains the farm’s transformation since his ownership began. Converting from a traditional coffee farm to a specialty-focused operation is a risk, especially within a country where nearly 75% of the coffee produced is Robusta. After taking over the farm in 1989, Ashok only practiced washed processing like his family before him. In 2010, though, he noticed the single-origin trend in cafes and the industry’s push for higher-quality offerings. In 2016, Ashok produced his first honey-processed coffees and slowly started adapting production toward specialty to meet this demand. The risk in this change was finding customers, but the reward was surviving the rising cost of inputs and labor and the pressure of a changing climate. Year by year, Ashok reevaluated all aspects of production. He began with cherries by implementing more selective picking over five to six rounds, followed by intensive sorting before processing. “We feel that is most important in Specialty to start with.” He then invested in infrastructure by constructing a mill, drying houses, and a washing station outfitted with fermenters.

Every aspect of production and process is controlled at Ratnagiri Estate, and 60% of the 117-hectare farm’s volume is Specialty grade. Ashok is focused on eco-friendly farming – “The only thing we use is fertilizers, and in case we have a pest attack, it is always biological control… I have seen a lot of farms all over the world [who] by indiscriminate use of pesticides and herbicides…ruin their farms.” 

Ashok intends to showcase specialty coffee from India in a new form, and Ratnagiri Estate coffees certainly follow through with that commitment. We are grateful that Mr. Patre’s interest in specialty coffee was sparked over 10 years ago and that these offerings have reached our roastery. The forward-thinking producer challenges the industry’s conception of what good coffee is and where it comes from, changing the landscape. Ashok is emblematic of this new era in coffee.